“Eccentric” is not a word I ever expected to see in a description of a tomato. But then, I hadn’t expected to come across a tomato like “Reisetomate.” Its German name translates to “travel tomato.” Why this designation? This heirloom has its roots in Central America where, reputedly, the native people would carry the fruits on trips. It makes sense. An individual tomato looks like a cluster of cherry tomatoes fused together. The lobes may be pulled off without actually opening the fruit. So, you can eat a few sections and save the rest without creating a mess.
In her book, “The Heirloom Tomato From Garden to Table,” Amy Goldman further describes the Reisetomate as “a tomato gone haywire.” She says that its bizarre appearance is due to a mutation that causes the carpels to fuse. The tomato’s appearance isn’t the only thing that gets a bum rap. Goldman describes its flavor as “poor; very sour.” Best uses? “Novelty and exhibition.”
I stumbled across this marvelously misshapen fruit at roadside stand this week and bought one to try. Washing the tomato was a weird experience in itself; I was afraid it would fall apart in my hands. Unlike Goldman, I found the taste very bright and flavorful, not sour, though there are many other varieties I would put before Reisetomate for flavor.
I also bought a “Costoluto Genovese” to try. This tomato, too, has an unusual shape – “Costoluto” means “ribbed” in Italian – though it’s much prettier than the sci-fi-worthy Reisetomate.
Here again, rating the flavor seems to depend on individual taste. The seed companies apparently love the Costoluto. For instance, the folks at Parks Seed claim that, “You may never buy tomato paste or sauce at the store again after tasting this superb heirloom Italian tomato! A favorite since the early 19th century for robust, tangy, ‘tomatoey’ sauces . . . fantastic flavor! . . . would not win any beauty contests, but . . . perfect for canning, their flavor . . . tells you you’ve left the bland world of modern hybrids far behind! Treasured in Italy for many generations . . . the secret ingredient in countless family recipes.” (http://parkseed.com/costoluto-genovese-tomato-seeds/p/05429-PK-P1/)
The description from Territorial Seeds is a little less effusive, but still plenty complimentary: “You may never find a more oddly shaped tomato, but what a great taste! The flavor is the most complex we have ever tasted, a bit on the sweet side and very juicy.” Curiously, I found the flavor very bright, acid-y, and not sweet at all. (http://www.territorialseed.com/product/Costoluto_Genovese_Tomato_Plant/heirloom_tomato_plants)
The website monticello.com, devoted to Thomas Jefferson’s Virginia home and gardens, says that Costoluto’s “heavily lobed and often convoluted shape is indicative of early nineteenth century tomato varieties, but makes an oddity in today’s vegetable garden.” The site also offers that “Costoluto Genovese’s stellar flavor is intense and acidic. Because of its odd shape, this tomato is best for sauces and pastes where the skin is removed.”
Despite these rave reviews, on an online tomato forum, I read posts by many people who said they actually disliked the flavor. A few said that they enjoyed it. Whom to believe?
Perhaps the bright, acid flavor of this tomato holds up to being made into sauce, but makes it less desirable for eating raw. If you grow your own tomatoes for sauce, it might be worth trying this one. (http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2169554/costoluto-genovese-how-does-it-behave)
For salads and sandwiches, “Black Krim,” a Russian heirloom, remains my all-time favorite. Interestingly, in a test conducted by Baker Creek Seeds, Black Krim came out on top for having the best overall nutrition. For snacking, I love the “Sungold” cherry tomato. All those others that are touted as being super sweet? Uh-uh. This one.
Note: If you have a favorite tomato, I’d love to hear about it.
Pam Baxter is an avid organic vegetable gardener who lives in Kimberton. Direct e-mail to pcbaxter@verizon.net, or send mail to P.O. Box 80, Kimberton, PA 19442. Join the conversation at “Chester County Roots,” a Facebook page for gardeners in the Delaware Valley. Go to Facebook, search for Chester County Roots, and “like” the page. To receive notice of updates, click or hover on “Liked” to set your preferences.